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Do it right the first time
When designing your pond...
After two months planning, the layout of the proposed pond, settling tanks and filter:
The hard work
Note the reo spikes in the bottom slab to anchor the walls, pond floor thickness 20 cm at the shallow end and 25 cm at the deep end of high tensile reinforced concrete.
Pond walls were constructed by using string line only and within 5 mm of being level, all reinforced with 9.5 mm reo horizontally and vertically with high tensile concrete poured into the cavity of all bricks. All corners are rounded to aid water flow, 10 mm render allover, 3 bottom drains, one overflow pipe. Pond sealed with water based epoxy, 4 settling tanks to settle out solids, the large waterfall adds oxygen to the pond.
The hand cut sails ( 90% shade cloth ) are edged with seatbelt cloth on a home sewing machine with nylon thread, 550 eyelets in total around their perimeter for the stainless steel wire lacing, and heavier stainless wire supports the sails between the steel poles.
The finished job and koi
The filter is 3.2 m X 2.9 m, it holds 9,000 L.
In total the system is 60,000 L.
I have two Onga 400 watt pumps delivering 16,000 L per hour through 5 rotating arms to the filter, I also have another pump for a venturi to circulate and oxygenate the pond when needed.
If you are going to build a koi pond you must bottom drain, have a settling tank or tanks and a filtration system that is more than capable of doing the job. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH.
This latest project was physical demanding, but was by far my most rewarding.
The more intricate something is the more prone to breakdown, so SIMPLIFY.
Article by 'Bottom Drain'